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Alexander Fury talks about the return of menswear to Miu Miu

Alexander Fury in Miu Miu Spring/Summer 22.

Ms. Prada brought everyone’s favorite miniskirt back to the catwalk for Miu Miu’s Fall ’22 runway, but this time around the barely there silhouette was met with low-rise leather shorts skimming the cheeks and a series of tartan variations on the now ubiquitous look. But it’s not just the reduced hems and prepster cuts we have to be grateful for. This season, Miu Miu’s cult classic menswear has returned to the catwalks with a vengeance, a dream come true for fashion nerds everywhere. To discuss this, our editor Mel Ottenberg sat down with the Another Magazine Director of Fashion and FinancialTimes menswear critic Alexander Fury after the show.

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MEL OTTENBERG: Hey Alex Fury, we walk and talk. Do you know the Supremes song “Forever Came Today”?

ALEXANDER FURY: No.

OTTENBERG: It says, “When you came into my life and it turned into paradise, forever came today.” Is that how you feel after the Miu Miu fashion show?

FURY: That’s how I feel about you, everyday.

OTTENBERG: Thank you very much, it’s very flattering, but how do you think about the return of Miu Miu mens?

FURY: Miu Miu men have never left for me, because I wear Miu Miu all the time.

OTTENBERG: And you’re wearing Miu Miu right now! Fresh off the trail. What is the size of this jacket?

FURY: 36 years old, Italian.

OTTENBERG: So you’re perplexed?

FURY: It’s a joy. I was kidnapped by Madame Prada.

Alexander Fury

Miu Miu Fall/Winter ’22.

OTTENBERG: I know you’re fucking pissed off, I’m pissed off. I have never “seen” myself in a Miu Miu show before.

FURY: You felt represented.

OTTENBERG: Wait, let’s talk about Lotta Volkova for a second. She ate Miu Miu OUT. The style – I mean, Miuccia Prada is a god – but Lotta, no sophomore crisis here.

FURY: It’s that amazing thing of having the confidence to stick with what you did last season when everyone is in this cycle of constant change. The idea of ​​believing in what you have created and wanting to reiterate and re-emphasize it. We often find ourselves with retail fatigue at this point in the season, and I don’t think anyone is tired of last season’s Miu Miu, even though it has been pretty ubiquitous. To re-address that this season, I thought it was clever.

Alexander Fury

Miu Miu Fall/Winter ’22.

FURY: Now it’s about the leather shorts – the double-belted low-rise leather shorts, or lederhosen.

OTTENBERG: What is your first choice for yourself?

FURY: Actually, I want the leather shorts.

OTTENBERG: I can’t wait to see you in it. Another thing I was telling you yesterday was that I didn’t feel the full reality of shit. I love reality butch, but I wasn’t entirely convinced. Now I am – not because of everyone – but because of Miuccia Prada. It’s the good butch look I wasn’t feeling, and she sold me on it.

Alexander Fury

Miu Miu Fall/Winter ’22.

FURY: It’s the lesbian look of the 1920s, 30s. Take Amelia Earhart, for example, this idea of ​​butch women dressing as men when it was an incredibly transgressive thing to do. I think it’s kind of interesting that this is what people are referring to… maybe it’s because there’s been so much femininity lately. Now, seeing women dressed like that is something fresh and new and always a bit provocative. I think this is very interesting.

OTTENBERG: I love him, and I love you. For ever.

FURY: See you soon, baby. Throw yourself in front of the traffic baby.

OTTENBERG: Goodbye, baby.

Cory E. Barnes

The author Cory E. Barnes